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Title: PREDICTING YARN PROCESSING PERFORMANCE FROM THE NONCELLULOSIC CONTENT OF RAW COTTONS

Author
item Brushwood, Donald

Submitted to: Textile Research Journal
Publication Type: Peer Reviewed Journal
Publication Acceptance Date: 6/5/2004
Publication Date: 1/1/2005
Citation: Brushwood, D. 2005. Predicting yarn processing performance from the noncellulosic content of raw cottons.Textile Research Journal 75(1):1-5.

Interpretive Summary: The noncellulosic content of raw cotton can significantly affect yarn spinning performance, efficiency and the quality of finished fabrics. A series of non-sticky domestically grown cottons varying in variety and growing area were chemically and physically tested for non-fibrous constituents such as surface waxes, total alcohol extractables, fiber ash, individual metal contents and fiber frictional characteristics. Test results, which were influenced by fiber micronaire and area of growth, were correlated with performance data for yarns produced on ring, open-end, and vortex spinning systems. Relationships determined for individual as well as area of growth averages indicate significant influences from fiber noncellulosic materials on yarn spinning performance, efficiency, color, and overall quality. Yarn strengths increased as levels of the noncellulosic extractable materials, and metal content of the fiber increased. Processing ends down in ring and open-end spinning also increased, but decreased in vortex spinning. Yarn evenness and thick and thin places decreased in ring and open-end, and increased in vortex yarn. Yarn yellowness increased as fiber wax and iron content increased.

Technical Abstract: Noncellulosic materials on raw cottons can influence spinning performance. Chemical and physical tests were conducted on a series of non-sticky single season upland cottons originating from three U.S. growing areas. Relationships between yarn production performance and efficiency and fiber frictional and physical properties as well as non-fibrous material content for three different spinning systems were determined. Area of growth and fiber micronaire significantly influenced results. Increased yarn strength correlated with increased levels of total fiber alcohol surface extractables, wax, and potassium content. Ends down increased in ring and open-end and decreased in vortex spinning as fiber surface extractables wax, and light metal content increased. Ends down decreased in ring and open-end and increased in vortex spinning as HVI and opening/carding wastes increased. Yarn evenness neps and thick and thin places decreased in ring and open-end and decreased in vortex yarns as surface extractables increased. Fiber yellowness increased as wax and iron content increased.