Skip to main content
ARS Home » Southeast Area » New Orleans, Louisiana » Southern Regional Research Center » Cotton Structure and Quality Research » Research » Publications at this Location » Publication #165374
Title: COTTON QUALITY: WHITE SPECK NEPS FROM FIBER TO FABRIC

Author
item Bel, Patricia
item BUGAO, XU - U OF TEXAS AT AUSTIN

Submitted to: National Cotton Council Beltwide Cotton Conference
Publication Type: Proceedings
Publication Acceptance Date: 6/1/2004
Publication Date: 1/4/2005
Citation: Bel Berger, P., Bugao, X. Cotton quality: white speck neps from fiber to fabric. CD-ROM. Memphis, TN. 2005 National Cotton Council Beltwide Cotton Conferences. P. 2446-2462.

Interpretive Summary: White speck neps, which are composed of immature cotton, are not easily detected until the fabric is dyed. The immature fiber entanglements show up as white specks on the dyed fabric, which makes it unusable in the fashion industry, literally costing millions in losses to the textile industry. The biological basis for the defect and the mechanical processing effects on white specks are reviewed along with field studies (from fiber to fabric). White speck predictions are developed from fiber properties as measured by several higih-speed fiber measurement systems and can be used as a tool by the mills and breeders. Breeders will be able to change the future of U.S. cottons, by eliminating varieties with high WSP early on in the breeding process, without having to go into full field studies. The prediction equations give meaningful information to the bale data. If a bale is known to have a high white speck potential, the bale fibers could be used to make whites or pastel shades of fabrics where it would not be a problem. These bales can be put into a special class for whites only, or used for combed, vortex or rotor spun yarns, (systems which remove the white specks) maximizing the fiber's potential and minimizing mill losses due to white specks.

Technical Abstract: White speck neps, which are composed of immature cotton, are not easily detected until the fabric is dyed, whereupon they become visible particularly in dark shades. The fabric is littered with "white specks" which makes it unusable in the fashion industry, literally costing millions of dollars in losses to the textile industry. This research first examines the biological basis for the defect, and then reviews mechanical processing effects on white specks along with field studies (from fiber to fabric). White speck predictions are developed from fiber properties as measured by several high-speed fiber measurement systems. Once the defect is detected, at the bale stage the fibers could be used to make whites or pastel shades of fabrics where the defect would not be a problem. First, a White Speck Potential (WSP) value needs to be developed from this type of research so it can be used as a tool by the mills and breeders. Bales with high WSP can be put into a special class for white fabrics only, or used for combed, vortex or rotor spun yarns, thus maximizing the fiber's potential and minimizing mill losses due to white specks. Breeders will be able to change the future of U.S. cottons by eliminating varieties with high WSP early on in the breeding process, without going to full field studies.