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Title: Miniature spinning enzyme-retted flax fibers

Author
item Foulk, Jonn
item Akin, Danny
item DODD, ROY - CLEMSON UNIVERSITY

Submitted to: Journal of Natural Fibers
Publication Type: Peer Reviewed Journal
Publication Acceptance Date: 11/15/2008
Publication Date: 6/1/2009
Citation: Foulk, J.A., Akin, D.E., Dodd, R. 2009. Miniature spinning enzyme-retted flax fibers. Journal of Natural Fibers. 6:1-13.

Interpretive Summary: Flax fibers can be blended with other fibers, such as cotton, processed into a yarn and then manufactured into a fabric. Enzyme-retting is an experimental method that decomposes parts of the plant stem to separate cellulose fibers from the woody portion of the stem using enzymes and chelators. Modifications of the flax fibers cause changes in the fiber and yarn strength depending upon the enzyme treatment. Spinning tests were used to determine how well fibers were assembled to form yarn and provided an indirect measurement of fiber properties. Fibers were evaluated for physical properties while yarns created with flax and cotton fibers were tested for spinning efficiency, strength, and evenness. The purpose of this study was to evaluate miniature spinning using 50/50 blends of cotton and enzyme-retted flax. Fiber properties can be tailored to optimize their use in yarn formation. Fibers directly impact yarn because fiber surface properties are dependent upon retting formulations. The length of fibers can be affected by aggressive enzymes. Fiber fineness is dependent upon the removal of matrix substances. Fibers frequently contain trash due to non-uniform enzyme-retting. Miniature spinning allows predictive strategies for ranking fiber production methods and resultant yarns.

Technical Abstract: Fibers from flax (Linum usitatissimum L.) are stiff and strong and can be blended with other short staple fibers, such as cotton (Gossypium barbadense L. or Gossypium hirsutum L.), processed into a yarn and then manufactured into a fabric. Manufacturing yarns with natural flax fibers has traditionally been constructed using dew- or water-retted fibers. Enzyme-retting is a new, experimental method that decomposes the pectinaceous and matrix substances to separate cellulose fibers from shives using pectinase-rich enzymes and chelators. Modifications of the natural hydrophilic fibers cause changes in the fiber and yarn strength depending upon the enzyme treatment. Spinning tests were used to determine how well fibers were assembled to form yarn and provided an indirect measurement of fiber properties. Fibers were evaluated for physical properties while yarns created with flax and cotton fibers were tested for strength and evenness. Properties of yarns vary considerably but these properties and spinning efficiency remain the top indicators to determine the best enzyme formulation for yarn production. The purpose of this study was to evaluate miniature spinning using 50/50 blends of cotton and enzyme-retted flax since enzyme modifications and chelators impact the fiber and yarn formation. Fibers directly impact yarn because fiber surface properties are dependent upon retting formulations, fiber length can be affected by aggressive enzymes, fiber fineness is dependent upon the removal of matrix substances, and fibers contain trash due to non-uniform enzyme-retting. Fiber properties can be tailored to optimize their use in yarn formation. Miniature spinning allows expanded predictive strategies for ranking fiber production methods, such as enzyme-retting, and resultant yarns beyond traditional fiber testing.