Cotton fiber elongation – A review

Authors: Delhom, Christopher - Chris; Wanjura, John; HEQUET, ERIC - Texas Tech University

Submitted to: Journal of Textile Institute
Publication Type: Peer Reviewed Journal
Publication Acceptance Date: 11/24/2022
Publication Date: 12/22/2022
Citation: Delhom, C.D., Wanjura, J.D., Hequet, E.F. 2022. Cotton fiber elongation – a review. Journal of Textile Institute. Article 2157940. https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2022.2157940.
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2022.2157940

Interpretive Summary: The tensile properties of cotton are important to determine performance during textile processing. The tensile properties of a material are composed of both breaking strength and elongation, although in cotton the focus has been predominantly on breaking strength. Although the textile industry recognized the importance of elongation early on; the difficulties in measuring the relatively small breaking elongations with accuracy, precision, and efficiency relegated the measurement to an afterthought. Tensile testing has evolved from using modified yarn testing equipment to custom instruments specifically designed to measure cotton fiber properties. Modern high-speed testing has made elongation testing practical and the recent development and implementation of elongation calibration cottons for high-speed tensile testing has renewed interest and restored the feasibility of characterizing cotton for strength and elongation. The ability to test a high-volume of cotton fibers for elongation creates another quality trait to explain the performance of cotton during processing.

Technical Abstract: The tensile properties of cotton are essential quality traits for determining the performance of a material in textile processing. Characterization of the tensile properties of cotton has evolved from manual assessments to a diverse series of mechanical methods. The early techniques of characterizing tensile properties of fibers were carried out using modified yarn testing equipment and bundles of fiber. In the mid-20th century, instruments specifically designed to measure the tensile properties of cotton fibers were developed and adopted by the industry. Early developments in fiber-specific instruments utilized a flat bundle approach that dominated the industry until the advent of high-speed cotton testing with the High Volume Instrument (HVI) implementation in the later part of the 20th century. The HVI utilizes a tapered beard approach to arranging the fibers for testing. Although tensile properties consist of breaking strength and elongation, the focus has been on breaking strength. The textile industry recognized the importance of elongation early on; however, the difficulties in measuring the relatively small breaking elongations with accuracy, precision, and efficiency relegated the measurement to an afterthought. Modern high-speed testing has made elongation testing practical and the recent development and implementation of elongation calibration cottons for high-speed tensile testing has renewed interest and restored the feasibility of characterizing cotton for strength and elongation.